Journal Entry Eight in Peru - 24/02/10

Journal Entry Eight in Peru - 24/02/10


Highlight of the day: Sighting my first hummingbird
Discovery of the day: Catholic morality is wide awake at 3am.
Over-riding emotion: Sleepy and tired.
Nooooo.... : Forgot the hot sauce after spending an extra 15 minutes wandering round the supermarket trying to remember what I'd forgotten.




It had been a rather drab day and I had just about given up getting anything exciting out of the day when, on my way home, I saw my first hummingbird! I had been told they could be found around the school, but not expecting or looking out for it at that particular moment made it that much more of a highlight and a definite raising of the spirits. I changed my route today to avoid another encounter with the old security guard with whom my initial attempt at being nice by smiling and exchanging pleasantries every morning and evening had turned awkward with his inability to understand that my Spanish currently extended only to the polite greetings and repeated efforts to have a lengthy conversation. I was beginning to feel rude and a long tiring day didn't need that cherry on top. Now, with the possibility of encountering hummingbirds, the route will be changed permanently, although I will have to forego the more fragrant of my jasmine trees.

I'm beginning to wonder if I shouldn't have opened with the good news, as now all that remains is to describe the drabness. There was one minor amusement in the wee hours of the morning when the son of the household returned home after a party with his girlfriend who was too tipsy to go home. Mum was awake and immediately setting up a makeshift bed for him on the living room floor as they couldn't possibly share a room under the roof of a good Catholic woman. It goes to show liberalness, artistic temperament and disowning one's mother religion in favour of astrological fervour counts for nothing when you live with your mother!

Currently, school is a bit chaotic as the special software they got in order to modernise the timetabling method has failed spectacularly and it might well be the case that we have no idea which class and where to teach come Monday morning. I have suggested that they announce a Sports Week, giving them time to sort it out and me time to finish my lesson plans. Sitting in the library trying to concentrate, although constructive, has given my a rather painful bruise on my upper right thigh due to the strangely designed desks I keep slamming my leg in to when I attempt to get up. Not getting up was proving to be an excellent preventative method until the librarian actually shooed me out in order to go home herself.

My eyes are drooping, so I'll sign off to watch one episode of the Big Bang Theory before I hit the hay.

Hasta Mañana!

Bureaucracy, on a good day, makes me sigh...

On a bad one, it makes me weep.

Journal Entry Seven in Peru - 21/02/10



Fortunately, it wasn't a day for crying, but there was plenty of sighing. On Friday I went to the Immigration office to get my tourist visa changed to one which allows me to sign contracts in the country. Yes, you need a special signature and stamp for that. It wasn't the first time either, as I went on Thursday, but didn't have my Andean migration card, which is a small slip of paper they should staple in to your passport (like they do in Thailand) because you need it to leave the country, but don't because they are saving money on staples and can earn more from you when you lose it. So, having returned with the required documents, you are told you need photocopies of everything, presumably they are saving on that too and making more money because they do have a convenient little booth for photocopying. After queuing for photocopies, you go join a very long queue at the bank to pay an administration fee. Thereafter, you join the correct queue, unlike us who wasted half an hour on the wrong queue, and get told to go back down to the bank and pay for the actual visa! Then you sit around waiting for the stamp and signature. You can't nip out for a bite because they don't let you in to the building without ID and your ID is now lying in a pile waiting to be processed. Fortunately, it didn't take very long and I can now legally put my signature to a document. Success! Although, I have many more similar trips to take before I get all my documents in order. Oh, bliss...

That last sentiment, reminds me of a line in the school's discipline policy: "Sarcasm has no place at S** J****." It's going to be a tough year... Rumours are circulating of a Secret Sarcasm Society in which to exhaust our pent-up sarcasm. On the topic of the school, my previous entry mentioned chaos, the reason being I had come from a meeting with the other senior teachers and the head on the switch to IB. The meeting being bilingual and switching back and forth from one language to another probably didn't help, but I doubt a meeting ever reaches its conclusion when groups of people break off and have their own discussions while the main meeting is still in progress. At the end of it, I had a pretty bad headache, only to have to go and sit in on a demonstration on how to use a SMARTboard. SMARTboards are cool and innovative, but I wonder if they actually do anything to make you a better teacher or to help the kids learn better. The tutorial consisting mainly of smart tricks and fancy side-stepping didn't lead me to think it would be more than a distraction, but it's the policy of the school to impose usage. Modernisation for the sake of modernisation, methinks. This is where my whole comment on show over substance came from and then it reminded me of the figure-skating fiasco at the Olympics (link). Yes, not everyone's cup of tea, but how can you leave out the quad and still win? Especially when the girls are doing them! (Go, Miki Ando!) Okay, unrelated sports link over.

Nevertheless, my meeting with the relevant people in an attempt to get the syllabus adjusted to reflect the ages and learning capabilities of the kids went well and I'm now starting the first year of secondary with more hands-on, practical knowledge and leaving the abstract ideas for the more senior years. Nothing much can be done for the current seniors, but this is a start. Now, I must start stocking up the lab with the basic instruments. Maybe I can sell the SMARTboard in my class on the black market and use those funds... Darn, there's that sarcasm again!

Well, it's Sunday morning, so not much has happened today, but yesterday was spent at my host's mother's house, sunning, reading, splashing around in the little pool and trying to understand the conversation. My host banned me from working as she thinks I work too hard from 7am to 6pm, but I haven't figured out how to tell her that I spend the first and last 2 hours of the day on the internet. Lunch was a special meal of beef ravioli, which was very tasty, albeit highly un-Peruvian.



Highlight of the day: Yummy McDonald's chocolate sundaes
Discovery of the day: Signatures and official stamps cost too much everywhere in the world.
Over-riding emotion: Content, but lots of work to do.
Nooooo.... : I've just realised that I have to learn the names of approximately 180 children.


Nada más!

Journal Entry Six in Peru - 17/02/10

Highlight of the day: Optimising my route to school so that I pass 2 jasmine bushes that smell divine.
Discovery of the day: Show and bluster counts for a lot more than usefulness and ability even in this part of the world.
Over-riding emotion: Complete and utter chaos
Nooooo.... : Found an Araliya tree (frangipani) today, but the flowers don't smell of anything.


More on the 'discovery of the day' tomorrow. Today, I feel the need to tell you more about living in Peru. I don't feel I have touched on the food enough either... Peru is going through a phase of gaining international fame for its local cuisine. They are actively promoting their food to the rest of the world. In fact, as one of my colleagues pointed out today, the front page story of a local newspaper was the fact that Beyonce had been in Lima for one day and that she liked the food! So, it's only fair that I do my bit.

I mentioned the anticucho de corazon before, a kebab of ox heart and also the chaufa, or Peruvian Chinese food. Since my host makes lunch for me every day, I haven't had much opportunity to eat out, but she makes pretty decent food. The other teachers in school have been impressed with my lunch, albeit disappointed when I point out that I didn't cook it. Today I had 'esceviche de pescado'. I'm pretty sure I spelt the first part of that wrong, but I had to do the best with the pronunciation I heard. It was fried fish with fried onions and an egg with rice and sweet potato. Very tasty and flavourful, unlike the day before when I had some sort of bean puree. Unfortunately, spicy food doesn't seem to be her forte, so I'm going to the shops soon to buy some Peruvian "hot sauce", which I have tried and was just right for spicening things up. I'll have to keep it in the school fridge so as not to hurt her feelings... Meanwhile, last weekend I had the opportunity to taste another Peruvian speciality, 'lomos saltado', spicy meat strips fried with onions and rice. They also give you chips with the meal, potatoes and rice being a common combination here although it does make a meal unfinishable for me. I have been promised the "famous" 'seviche' soon, apparently raw fish 'cooked' with lemon. I'm not sure whether to look forward to that or dread it.

Unfortunately, my desserts have been limited to fruit salad and jelly, so that aspect is not very exciting. However, the jelly was made with milk and strawberries, so that's quite a new idea. Today, a fellow teacher brought in cake for his birthday, but it wasn't anything to write home about. The ice cream I had on the weekend was pretty good and my boss has suggested I try D'onofrio, which she considers the best in the world, but then she is slightly biased. I really must find the time to visit the bakery, but it's been too late when I get off work these days.

News on the home front, my host's daughter who lives at home is a model. Enviably, she seems to spend her time either on holiday at the beach or working out at the gym. Also, I think my first rent cheque has gone towards buying a pool for my host who gets very hot because, as her son rather amusedly pointed out to me, she is going through the menopause. It's reassuring how many words are pretty much the same in the two languages, just pronounced more 'Spanish'. It's an inflatable pool (before you get too excited), as we live on the first floor of a block of flats and I wonder where they plan to put it as there isn't much empty space around here. Having not described the flat before, I should say it's an immaculately kept (despite having a shedding dog!), spacious 4-bed flat which takes up half the floor.

There is no pleasant way to lead in to this, but it is a part of Peruvian life so I should point out a rather gross oddity in that you cannot flush your toilet paper, but have to bin it instead. I'm slowly getting used to it, although it is a habit and I was afraid I'd block up the system a few times. This is a Peru-wide fact, I believe, as the sanitation system just cannot handle it. In fact, in the school, they don't even have loo rolls inside the cubicles, but only dispensers in the common area of the toilet and you have to take some in with you. I think that covers that subject, so let's move on.

Since I don't want to end on that note, let me tell you about the pieces of art my host's son gave me. He is an artist, but these were works of a friend of his; photographs altered in photoshop to look rather mystical. One is a pineapple-like fruit overlaid with an orange tint. The other is a delightful bright pink and white mist overlaid on a photo of coca leaves or "Hoja de coca". These are the leaves of the coca plant, from which cocaine is also obtained, but the Peruvians dislike drug connection to this plant which was considered sacred by the Mayans and they drink coca tea. I don't think it makes you high, but I will try it at some point.

I will stop now before today becomes tomorrow.

Hasta Mañana!

I've been to the beach!

Journal Entry Five in Peru - 14/02/10


Highlight of the day: Not needing to bargain taxi fare, having managed to pass for a local.
Discovery of the day: Peruvian beer doesn't smell nasty and tastes ok.
Over-riding emotion: Enjoying a lovely weekend.
Nooooo.... : I forgot to take my camera with me this morning and it was a beautifully sunny day and the view of the sea from Miraflores was amazing.


I have survived my first full-on encounter with Peruvian driving and traffic, albeit barely. The general rule here is "don't stop". I am absolutely serious and it was conveyed to me by Peruvian drivers. Everyone here drives at high speed and keeping any space between your car and the one in front is merely a temptation for the car behind to overtake. So, the result of stopping is that the car behind WILL crash in to you. However, this seems such a common occurrence that when we crashed in to the Merc in front, they didn't stop to exchange insurance details but drove on as if nothing had happened.

Not to worry, I am fine and unscathed. In fact, that trip yesterday to the South of Lima was an experience. Living in Miraflores (which is where I live and the school is 10 minutes walk away, so I haven't been anywhere else) is pretty much the same as living in Colombo 7. Everything is upmarket, safe and clean. In fact, on the taxi ride to Larcomar, the nearby shopping centre, I had a complete sense of deja-vu as if I was driving down Duplication Road near the British Council. Yet, as you leave the area, you are exposed to a much broader, clearer view of Lima as a whole. The unfinished, unused tram track rises above the motorway, a reminder of a past government's attempt to drum up votes before the money ran out. The houses gradually morph from the modern, 'designed' houses of Miraflores to block houses where only the front wall is painted for appearance's sake. Looking towards the rising hills you see the shacks built on the incline, getting more unstable as they get higher. The government has put in bright yellow staircases for access and, at night, the street lamps indicate rows upon rows of abodes covering the hills as far as the hills stretch out, given the fog isn't blocking your view. The idea of so many people living permanently in makeshift homes, without water and electricity (because the street lights are the only source of light you see) is rather stark. And yet, Beyonce is coming to Lima and tickets sell for between $100 and $200.

Our destination on this trip was the beach and despite being rather overcast, it was still very hot and the hole in the Ozone layer in Lima means you still have to use sunblock so, those of you coming to visit, please bring 80-100 factor sunblock even if you don't burn. It was my first contact with the Pacific Ocean so a dip was required despite the sea not being particularly tempting: crashing waves and sandy, unclear water. However, the birds skimming the waves for fish was a sight I could watch for hours. A group of pelicans were following the crest of the waves, which built up unbelievably quickly to about 2 to 3 metres and crashed down even faster, with delightful skill and a flock of smaller birds were hovering further out, the occasional splash indicating a diving individual going for its prey. Yes, I know I should have photos, but I was unprepared and we will repeat the trip soon for photographic reasons and hopefully to include a sunset.

The day then extended to a trip to the local stadium for my friend's husband's weekly basketball practice. It is a rather grand stadium meant for football but extended to basketball, of which there is a national league. Competitiveness is not high on the list of Peruvian characteristics as the teams consist of members of a range of ability, including overweight men to old guys with grey hair and even the occasional wife who imposes herself on the practice courts and runs around energetically only to have no one pass the ball to her. Perhaps it is the fully made-up face that puts them off... The practice ended with a hop across to the local 'off-license' where everyone sat outside on the pavement and drank beer. The Peruvian method for social drinking is something I've never heard of before: they have a few bottles of beer a one glass. You pour yourself a drink and pass on the bottle to the next person who then waits for the glass and does the same. The wait between drinks means no one gets drunk very fast. I tried one drink so as not to offend the others and it was actually bearable. Still more a fan of the Pisco sour, though.

I also had my first taste of Peruvian Chinese food, or Chifa. Actually, I'm not sure if Chifa is just the name for a Chinese restaurant or if it also describes the food. Chaufa is fried rice, I think... It's good. I have to try more dishes.

Oh dear, it's later than I thought and I have to write a 500 word essay on what I got out of "The Blindside". It's the latest Sandra Bullock movie about a kid who needs special help in school. I should've known there was a catch when we watched a movie for a teaching tutorial.

Hasta Mañana!

Journal Entry Four in Peru - 12/02/10

Highlight of "the day": A nice, long cold shower after a very hot day.
Discovery of the day : Toiletries are about the same price as in the UK, although I did go to the main supermarket in Lima, which might be over-pricing. Must check out other shops.
Over-riding emotion: Exhausted
Nooooo.... : Peruvians appear to have a fondness for putting aniseed in their sweets. Not a fan.


I finished the syllabus just now, apart from a few additions to be done tomorrow (today, it's past midnight). It should suffice, with the addition of the first sections of a few topics from the IB syllabus which I left at school. I'm trying to include lab work, which they haven't done at all previously. The lab is utterly basic though. I might have to strong-arm the school managers to buy some basic equipment - the "physics lab cupboard" is full of unrecognizable, hefty equipment. It might be an idea to make the kids try and figure out what they do... fulfil the "analysing and evaluating" sections of Bloom's revised taxonomy.

I wonder if I'm beginning to sound like a teacher...

Enough of the work info, let's move on to the interesting events of today. Almost everyone in school loves my smile (proof to follow) and I have officially been asked THE question: "Are you single?" I now have two self-appointed matchmakers.

Hasta Mañana!

Journal Entry Three in Peru - 10/02/10

Highlight of "the day": Coming face-to-face (or should I say cheek-to-cheek?) with my first hot Peruvianos!
Discovery of the day : There are people in Peru who think China will take over the world (in 10 years...)
Over-riding emotion: Bliss
Nooooo.... : I have to do a "practice"-run of a class for some fellow teachers. Scary. I have a mental block when it comes to pretending people aren't who they are...


Well, I missed "The Big Bang Theory", but it was totally worth it for my first Peruvian birthday party and finally getting some eye-candy. I'm glad to discover that my nerd genes aren't so bad that I'd pass up a party for some awesome scientific comedy. Unfortunately, I am afraid I can't extend the new-found attractive gene to the rest of Peru as they were all brothers and their cousins weren't following suit. It could be a specific combination of genes in that particular nuclear family...

Apart from this, it was rather an uneventful day. I sat through a Sex-Ed tutorial for teachers, which was in Spanish so I didn't understand why the rest would suddenly burst out laughing. It seemed fun, which makes me more determined to learn Spanish faster. At the moment, I dread to think what I sound like to a Spanish speaker. My grammar is atrocious, but I am slowly increasing my vocabulary. I think the family are taking bets as to when I will be fluent. From tonight's discussion, I gather the estimates range from a very optimistic 2 months to a steady 1 year.

At the moment, I am trying to write up a syllabus for the Physics grades I will be teaching, 8 and 9, the two pre-A'level years. The Peruvian system is very strange in that all the schools teach what they want to - there is no curriculum. And, since the kids go to University at 16 (!!!), they cram some very advanced content in to the syllabus and leave out other more basic theory. My job is to make sure the gap between the basics and the IB syllabus is bridged before they start on that in 1 or 2 years time. It's proving difficult as the previous years were taught in Spanish and the syllabus needs to be translated by me!

So, I'll be getting back to that now...




A whole new meaning to the phrase "graphic sex":

Journal Entry Two in Peru - 08/02/10

Highlight of "the day": Meeting lots of lovely, smiley Peruvian teachers.
Discovery of the day : Peru has no national exam for all students at any level, merely an entrance exam for University.
Over-riding emotion: Pride and contentment - had a decent conversation in Spanish with my host.
Nooooo.... : The school wants me to teach Chemistry, as well!!!

First day at school was great, except for having to sit through a bunch of talks, mostly in Spanish, of which I understood less than 1%. However, no one seems to think I missed anything. Everyone was very welcoming, even the teachers who don't speak English. The head of science is trying to convince me to teach Chemistry as well as Physics. My total hatred of organic chemistry seems not to have dissuaded him from pursuing the idea. It might be time to put him in touch with my mother so she can relate to him the story of when I tried to drop A'level Chem and she got Mr Sanders (school principal) to ban me from doing so. Ah, the good old days when you were told what to do...

Not much else of notable interest.
The English guy has decided to call the 3 of us from England "Little Britain". He's a bit of a joker.
The sun came out from behind the clouds, over which the argument as to whether they are actual clouds due to the combination of mountains and sea or if it is pollution remains unresolved.
I found a bakery near my house to satiate my sweet tooth, as my host family appear to limit dessert to fruits! Although, I do get a divine glass of fresh, home-made papaya juice every morning.
Finally sorted out the sim card. Phone number is 00511********, if anyone starts missing the sound of my voice. Although, I will get skype sorted out soon and figure out the time differences etc.
Canela, the family dog has initiated me in to the family by sneaking off with one of my socks, which was fortunately rescued before any holes were introduced to it. "Canela" means Cinnamon in Spanish and she's a well-behaved, golden retriever.

Hasta Luego!

Journal Entry One in Peru - 07/02/10

Highlight of "the day": National Pisco Day
Discovery of the day : Peruvian tv broadcasts "The Big Bang Theory" - nerd genes are happy-galloping.
Over-riding emotion: Sleepiness, as a result of a delicious lunch (of meat, sweet potato and rice) and the overcast 'heavy' heat of Lima.
Nooooo.... : Shown up by a 16-year-old American kid. Sigh.


It seems I have perfect timing, arriving in Lima on National Pisco Day; technically a weekend but you'd probably be too drunk to know or care. Pisco Sour is the national cocktail of Peru, and they have a national holiday dedicated to it. This fact has been blowing my mind since last night, although this could be largely due to the glass of Pisco Sour I imbibed. It's a nice drink: a mixture of Pisco (a grape-based liqueur), lime juice, sugar syrup and egg-white blended with crushed ice. The general opinion was that the maker of the drink last night, the jovial son-in-law of my host, got carried away with the ratio of Pisco to everything else. Yet, as the alcohol flowed so did the conversation which, generously translated for me, was along the lines of vampire bats, eating rats and the snobbish rich and their beach-front houses in the South.

Those of you who know me, and have tried to get me drunk, will know that alcohol only ever makes me very sleepy, which was just what I needed to fall asleep despite the apparently never-ending traffic on my 'window-step', apparently payback for complaining about the deathly silence of English nights. And so, on to my present abode and other tidbits. Nice little room with my own tv and a small paper cutting of the Hindu god Ganesh considerately stuck on the back of the door by the son of the household, who I gather has converted to Hinduism and was rather disappointed to find out that I am not a Hindu. He is a full-time artist, which appears to be a viable career over here, his uncle being an artist as well, with a disconcerting obssession of unicorns. My host is lovely, although her slight grasp of English will propel me to learn Spanish that much faster, although I have managed to slip in that I don't like lettuce! Kudos are welcome...

Her food is great and she may have found the way to make me eat vegetables - boil them until there is no 'crunch' left and smother with mayo. Why did no one think of this before?!? Potatoes and rice in the same meal seems to be the norm, but as the main meal is lunch and dinner is a luxury left to those who stay up late, this will be a nice change as I will be joining the ranks of people waking up at 6am from tomorrow.

My boss is lovely and, apparently, quite fascinated by British culture. Her journalist daughter has already given me a couple of impromptu hugs for saying something funny and will be arriving soon to show me around Lima and get me that all-important sim card.

Before I forget, I must dish on the teen from Oregon who put me in the shade with her impressive Spanish-speaking ability. Talk about stomping on that stereotype of ignorant Americans who know of nothing besides their own world. For those of you who thought I was brave doing this, think about this girl: she's 16 and has come across to Peru all on her own and is staying with a host family she does not know for 6 months to experience a culture which "intrigued" her. I wish I had guts like that when I was 16...

This entry will be uploaded on to various internet sites when I get access to the internet, which should be tomorrow; my first day at school.

Hasta Luego!


...Update...

Just had anticucho de corazon - ox heart kebabs (pieces on a stick, not the Britich kebab) - which was tasty. Not such a fan of the bovine intestine though... too chewy. I also saw the Pacific Ocean for the first time! From afar, but a visit to the beach is not far off...