I've been to the beach!

Journal Entry Five in Peru - 14/02/10


Highlight of the day: Not needing to bargain taxi fare, having managed to pass for a local.
Discovery of the day: Peruvian beer doesn't smell nasty and tastes ok.
Over-riding emotion: Enjoying a lovely weekend.
Nooooo.... : I forgot to take my camera with me this morning and it was a beautifully sunny day and the view of the sea from Miraflores was amazing.


I have survived my first full-on encounter with Peruvian driving and traffic, albeit barely. The general rule here is "don't stop". I am absolutely serious and it was conveyed to me by Peruvian drivers. Everyone here drives at high speed and keeping any space between your car and the one in front is merely a temptation for the car behind to overtake. So, the result of stopping is that the car behind WILL crash in to you. However, this seems such a common occurrence that when we crashed in to the Merc in front, they didn't stop to exchange insurance details but drove on as if nothing had happened.

Not to worry, I am fine and unscathed. In fact, that trip yesterday to the South of Lima was an experience. Living in Miraflores (which is where I live and the school is 10 minutes walk away, so I haven't been anywhere else) is pretty much the same as living in Colombo 7. Everything is upmarket, safe and clean. In fact, on the taxi ride to Larcomar, the nearby shopping centre, I had a complete sense of deja-vu as if I was driving down Duplication Road near the British Council. Yet, as you leave the area, you are exposed to a much broader, clearer view of Lima as a whole. The unfinished, unused tram track rises above the motorway, a reminder of a past government's attempt to drum up votes before the money ran out. The houses gradually morph from the modern, 'designed' houses of Miraflores to block houses where only the front wall is painted for appearance's sake. Looking towards the rising hills you see the shacks built on the incline, getting more unstable as they get higher. The government has put in bright yellow staircases for access and, at night, the street lamps indicate rows upon rows of abodes covering the hills as far as the hills stretch out, given the fog isn't blocking your view. The idea of so many people living permanently in makeshift homes, without water and electricity (because the street lights are the only source of light you see) is rather stark. And yet, Beyonce is coming to Lima and tickets sell for between $100 and $200.

Our destination on this trip was the beach and despite being rather overcast, it was still very hot and the hole in the Ozone layer in Lima means you still have to use sunblock so, those of you coming to visit, please bring 80-100 factor sunblock even if you don't burn. It was my first contact with the Pacific Ocean so a dip was required despite the sea not being particularly tempting: crashing waves and sandy, unclear water. However, the birds skimming the waves for fish was a sight I could watch for hours. A group of pelicans were following the crest of the waves, which built up unbelievably quickly to about 2 to 3 metres and crashed down even faster, with delightful skill and a flock of smaller birds were hovering further out, the occasional splash indicating a diving individual going for its prey. Yes, I know I should have photos, but I was unprepared and we will repeat the trip soon for photographic reasons and hopefully to include a sunset.

The day then extended to a trip to the local stadium for my friend's husband's weekly basketball practice. It is a rather grand stadium meant for football but extended to basketball, of which there is a national league. Competitiveness is not high on the list of Peruvian characteristics as the teams consist of members of a range of ability, including overweight men to old guys with grey hair and even the occasional wife who imposes herself on the practice courts and runs around energetically only to have no one pass the ball to her. Perhaps it is the fully made-up face that puts them off... The practice ended with a hop across to the local 'off-license' where everyone sat outside on the pavement and drank beer. The Peruvian method for social drinking is something I've never heard of before: they have a few bottles of beer a one glass. You pour yourself a drink and pass on the bottle to the next person who then waits for the glass and does the same. The wait between drinks means no one gets drunk very fast. I tried one drink so as not to offend the others and it was actually bearable. Still more a fan of the Pisco sour, though.

I also had my first taste of Peruvian Chinese food, or Chifa. Actually, I'm not sure if Chifa is just the name for a Chinese restaurant or if it also describes the food. Chaufa is fried rice, I think... It's good. I have to try more dishes.

Oh dear, it's later than I thought and I have to write a 500 word essay on what I got out of "The Blindside". It's the latest Sandra Bullock movie about a kid who needs special help in school. I should've known there was a catch when we watched a movie for a teaching tutorial.

Hasta Mañana!